While planning for my maiden trip to Phi Phi island, it wasn’t uncommon to be asked “Is it still there?” or “Where will you stay?”.
On October 27, 2005, 10 months after the tsunami devastation, I boarded a ferry along with Leo headed for the famed island made famous by Leonardo Di Caprio (no relation to my Leo, of course). The 2-hour journey was anything but turbulent, almost like the Andaman Sea was welcoming us with open arms. Strangely enough, the sight of a chaotic jetty filled with scores of hotel and dive shop staff jostling for business was a welcome relief in many ways.
We arrived in the middle of the European holiday season. The island was teeming with backpackers armed with the dream of the perfect island getaway. Naturally prices were little steeper than usual, so we had to settle paying 500 (about US$12) baht a night room equipped only with a fan and surrounded by stinky construction sites.
Aside from booking our flights, we didn’t make any prior arrangements. So it came no surprise when we signed up on a 2-dive package for 2500 bath (own equipment). Undeterred by just having paid triple what we’d normally pay in Malaysia, we set off for full day of diving with an Israeli diver and guided by an English divemaster. Our 40 minute dive at Shark Point was perhaps the only highlight of the day. We had the pleasant company of three 6-foot leopard sharks, by an arm length away, who perhaps enjoyed our company as much as we did of theirs. A symbiotic relationship match made in heaven.
On October 27, 2005, 10 months after the tsunami devastation, I boarded a ferry along with Leo headed for the famed island made famous by Leonardo Di Caprio (no relation to my Leo, of course). The 2-hour journey was anything but turbulent, almost like the Andaman Sea was welcoming us with open arms. Strangely enough, the sight of a chaotic jetty filled with scores of hotel and dive shop staff jostling for business was a welcome relief in many ways.
We arrived in the middle of the European holiday season. The island was teeming with backpackers armed with the dream of the perfect island getaway. Naturally prices were little steeper than usual, so we had to settle paying 500 (about US$12) baht a night room equipped only with a fan and surrounded by stinky construction sites.
Aside from booking our flights, we didn’t make any prior arrangements. So it came no surprise when we signed up on a 2-dive package for 2500 bath (own equipment). Undeterred by just having paid triple what we’d normally pay in Malaysia, we set off for full day of diving with an Israeli diver and guided by an English divemaster. Our 40 minute dive at Shark Point was perhaps the only highlight of the day. We had the pleasant company of three 6-foot leopard sharks, by an arm length away, who perhaps enjoyed our company as much as we did of theirs. A symbiotic relationship match made in heaven.
The following day came with another twist. Leo wanted to try his hand at rock climbing. So what’s the twist? Well, I have a phobia of heights. Imagine not being able to even walk across the KLCC Sky Bridge, let alone dangling on cliffs by the sea, my legs trembled as I reluctantly compelled to beat my fear. I felt obligated to accompany Leo on his sudden need for heights. It’s the least I could do for my travel buddy who so graciously agreed to accompany me on this trip instead of following our other friends to Vietnam.
I made it to 25 metres!!! (Comically I think). With the encouragement of my instructor, aptly named Fit, constantly reminding me, “Yes, right foot up to your knee! 1, 2, 3, Pull yourself up! Yes! Get a grip with your left foot, beautiful…”, I was rewarded with a breathtaking view of the ocean. Surprisingly Leo didn’t quite enjoy as much though. He had problems tying the 8-knot despite being buoyed by Fit’s broken English, “No,You! tie knot again, tie all day…”. No prizes for guessing who enjoyed rock climbing more. I was just as pleasantly surprised.
Despite the reopening of many of the island’s resorts, restaurants and dive centres, Phi Phi is still in a period of rebuilding. The bitter memories of the tsunami devastation have yet to be wiped out completely. Locals claim that in spite of the Thai Government allocating huge sums of money for the island’s restoration, it never reached them. Instead, it was the international aid along with volunteers from the around the world that actually helped them get back on their feet. Having said all that, the resilience and perseverance of the island’s inhabitants was paramount to their road to recovery. Judging from all stories told by the locals we met, there’s a deep sense of optimism and appreciation for the Mother Nature’s second chance at living.
Despite the reopening of many of the island’s resorts, restaurants and dive centres, Phi Phi is still in a period of rebuilding. The bitter memories of the tsunami devastation have yet to be wiped out completely. Locals claim that in spite of the Thai Government allocating huge sums of money for the island’s restoration, it never reached them. Instead, it was the international aid along with volunteers from the around the world that actually helped them get back on their feet. Having said all that, the resilience and perseverance of the island’s inhabitants was paramount to their road to recovery. Judging from all stories told by the locals we met, there’s a deep sense of optimism and appreciation for the Mother Nature’s second chance at living.
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